Please forgive my intrusion into the Onan section as I don't own 1 but I have a couple questions.Ģ, when the board is "rebuilt" what exactly are they doing to it?I would think replacing bad components as in capacitors and resistors and re-soldering joints. wiggling while holding start button yielded no results. You can wiggle or push on the board a little bit to see if it helps or not might get a connection. My thoughts: switch appears to be working. Switch in "start" position: both side terminals read 12v. Switch in neutral position: center terminal reads 12v, side terminals ~0.3v Setup: voltmeter (+) to B+, voltmeter (-) to switch terminals. That voltage comes thru ~ 300 ohm coil of kelay K4. If it does have voltage on it, if you ground that trace the engine should start (if rest of board is ok). ![]() With engine off one connection to switch should have some voltage on it (with repect to ground) if you measure with a voltmeter, not a test light. The start/stop switch switch ground, not +12V, so conections are close to ground potential. If you need a board I recommend Flight Systems they make very good parts at a much better price than Onan. That voltage comes thru ~ 300 ohm coil of kelay K4.įor probing the insulated board traces I use a sewing needle connected to meter leads. The start/stop switch switchs ground, not +12V, so conections are close to ground potential. Can you post a picture of both sides and connector? Can be fixed if you are handy with a soldering iron. How does the board look, sometimes the thin board copper traces to the switch get corroded open. Board part number is 300–4901–01 Board, Circuit – Printed. If above doesn't solve it and connections to board are clean, sounds like the board is bad. This isolates any RV wiring problems from effecting gen. Try disconnecting the remote start stop switch and starting gen from gens' start/stop switch. When you did this test did you use a testlight, not meter? I've seen green car connections that won't even light a bulb test good with a voltmeter. Make sure you have + 12V power at control board, put 12V testlight across pin P1-7 (+) and P1-11 (-) control board fuse measures 12 VDC on both sides.Īny other suggested test to confirm diagnosis? there seams to be zero voltage at the switch on any the three terminals (I scrapped off protective coating before testing) ![]() >Wiggle the connector to control board while holding down start button, could be intermittent/loose connector pin. Start button does not send voltage to P1-9. >When you press start button, ~ +12V should appear at control board pins P1-9, ( and at P1-1 and P1-12) >Make sure you have + 12V power at control board, put 12V testlight across pin P1-7 (+) and P1-11 (-). ![]() >Is there at least a click from small relays on control board? more info belowĬontrol board 5-amp fuse passes visual test and measures 0 Ohms. Wow, thank you Len K, Kpack and lennemann23 for your input, the manual and quick replies.
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